Generated with AIA good men’s T-shirt comes down to three things: the knit, the fit and the finish. When all three are right, it sits cleanly on the shoulders, does not twist after washing and still looks neat under a blazer. Below we explain how to judge the fabric and its weight by hand, where the shoulder seam should end, what good neck ribbing looks like and how to wash a T-shirt so it keeps its shape.
A T-shirt plays by different rules from a shirt. There is no collar, cuff or tie to draw the eye away from a weak fabric, so everything depends on the knit and on how it sits on your body. That is why it pays to buy less often, but better.
In brief
Generated with AIThe knit matters most, because it decides comfort, durability and whether the T-shirt looks clean on the body. A good one is soft but not limp, breathable but not sheer, and stable: it resists stretching and twisting. The label is only the start: yarn quality and the way the fabric is knitted matter just as much, so look closely and feel it.
In practice you need two kinds of T-shirt. One has to cope with heavy use: frequent washing, travel, a full day at the office and dinner afterwards. The other has to look good under a blazer, so a smooth, even surface and no bunching across the chest are what count. The two can overlap, but a very thin T-shirt shows wear sooner, while a very heavy one can feel stiff and less versatile.
Each composition has its strengths:
Generated with AIFabric weight, the mass of the knit per square metre, tells you how substantial a T-shirt is: whether it will hold its shape and how it will hang. Lighter T-shirts are airy and good for hot days, but they are more often see-through and show imperfections sooner. A mid-weight is usually the most versatile choice for work and everyday wear.
You can judge the weight and the quality of the knit without reading the label, in three steps:
Weight also affects how a T-shirt looks after a few hours. Lighter knits crease faster, especially if you sit a lot or drive. A mid-weight is more forgiving: it stays neat for longer and does not need constant tugging at the waist. Under a blazer, the fabric should be neither so slippery that it shifts and rolls, nor so thick that it pushes the lapels out.
The fit should bring order to your proportions. The most common mistake is a T-shirt that is too wide through the body or too tight across the chest: either way, the fabric falls into folds. A good one looks natural even when you are just standing still.
Start with the shoulders, because they give the most away. The shoulder seam should end roughly where your shoulder ends, not down on the upper arm and not up near the neck. If it drops, the T-shirt is too big and softens the top of your frame. If it sits too high, the fabric pulls across the back and under the arms.
In a smart-casual outfit the sleeve should end around mid-bicep. Too long looks like loungewear; too short exposes the underarm with every movement. Under a blazer, the sleeve must not bunch into a ridge under the arm, or the jacket will ride up and lose its line.
The safest length ends around the middle of the trouser fly. You can then wear the T-shirt untucked or tuck it in, and it will not slip out the first time you bend down. With tailored trousers a tucked-in T-shirt usually looks better, because it tidies the waistline, and a leather belt finishes it off.
There is no single fit for everyone. A man with broad shoulders and a narrower waist can choose a closer fit. With a fuller stomach, look for a cut that does not cling at the middle but does not turn into a tent either. A more stable knit helps, because it shows less of what is underneath.
We cover finding your size in more detail in our guide on how to choose a men’s T-shirt. If you are buying a blazer in an Albione salon, try it on over the T-shirt you plan to wear with it, so that the fit and any alterations we make on site allow for the right layer underneath.
Generated with AIThe safest choice is a classic crew neck, as long as the ribbing is stable and does not ripple. It should sit at the base of the neck: not climbing up it, and not showing too much under a blazer.
The neck ribbing works hardest, because you stretch it every time you put the T-shirt on or take it off. If it is too thin or poorly sewn in, the neckline will look stretched after a few washes and the whole T-shirt will look tired. When you try one on, stretch the ribbing gently: good ribbing springs straight back and lies flat.
Look at the stitching too. Even, dense stitching at the sleeves and hem shows a careful finish. If the thread wanders and the seam runs crooked, the T-shirt may twist after washing.
If you want to look a little more formal and keep the comfort of a knit, consider a polo shirt. The collar frames the upper body and still looks right when you take your blazer off during the day. Our guide to wearing a polo with a blazer explains how to combine the two.
A T-shirt can be the base under a blazer, a top in its own right with chinos, or a layer under a sweater. In each role it should be plain, fit well at the shoulders and have a stable neckline.
The simplest outfit is a white or navy T-shirt, beige or olive chinos and a navy or grey blazer. The contrast is calm, the proportions are clear, and a leather belt with classic shoes completes it.
When travelling, a T-shirt has to be comfortable but still look right when you go straight from the road to a meeting or a restaurant. Knits that hold their shape well work best here, such as the cotton and polyester blend mentioned above. You can take your blazer off and carry it over your arm, and the T-shirt still looks tidy.
In an office without a strict dress code, a T-shirt can stand in for a shirt, provided it looks like a proper garment rather than something to wear at home. Avoid prints, contrast trims and very thin knits. A plain T-shirt, a blazer and pressed trousers give an orderly look. The Luca T-shirt in viscose and cotton works well here: it has a sweater-like texture and suits a blazer with tailored trousers as well as chinos.
Colour matters too. White is the most versatile and the most demanding, because signs of wear show quickly. Navy is safe and pairs well with greys. Black can look striking but heavy in daylight, so it works best with lighter pieces. If in doubt, start with white and navy.
To keep a T-shirt looking good, wash it gently at a low temperature and do not overload the machine. Friction, a harsh spin and drying that stretches the knit do the most damage.
A common problem is a T-shirt that twists after washing. It usually comes from an unstable knit or from the wrong way of drying. If you hang a wet T-shirt by its hem, the weight of the water drags the fabric down and the seams start to drift. Shake it out gently and lay it flat instead, or drape it over a drying rack so the weight is spread evenly.
Heat can shrink a T-shirt and speed up fading. Black, navy and dark green lose colour faster when washed too warm and dried in strong sun. Wash T-shirts inside out, with similar colours, on a delicate cycle. Check the care label first, because blends with silk or viscose may need a gentler wash than pure cotton.
The iron is worth using too. A creased T-shirt spoils an outfit with a blazer, and a quick press of the front and neckline is enough, especially on light colours.
Wearing the same T-shirt day after day shortens its life: the knit has no time to recover and you end up washing it in a hurry. Keep a few reliable T-shirts and rotate them. Store them folded, because on a thin hanger the neck ribbing stretches under the weight of the fabric. If you do hang them, use a broad-shouldered hanger and do not cram them in.
When choosing a T-shirt, start with the knit and the weight, then check the shoulders, sleeves and length, and finally look at the neckline and seams. Get these right and the T-shirt will look good on its own and under a blazer, whenever you want to dress down without losing polish.
The best approach is a small, reliable core: a white T-shirt, a second in a dark colour and perhaps a third in a neutral shade that suits your trousers and blazers. Add sensible care, rotation and a quick press before you go out. You will find styles in several compositions, from pure cotton to a cotton, modal and silk blend, among the Albione T-shirts.
This article was prepared with the help of AI tools. Product details were checked against the Albione catalogue.
Enough that you never wear the same one two days running. If you wear a T-shirt several times a week, keep several in rotation: you avoid rushed washes and the knit has time to recover. Two or three core colours are enough, with the rest chosen to suit particular blazers and trousers.
No, but white mercilessly reveals the quality of the knit. If the fabric is too thin, strong light shows the outline of your body through it. That is why a white T-shirt is best chosen in a more stable knit and checked in daylight, ideally by a window.
The safest option is a classic, not too deep crew neck with stable ribbing. Under a blazer it should sit calmly at the base of the neck. Too loose looks sloppy, and too high climbs up the neck and pulls attention away from the lapels.
Wash it inside out and do not overload the machine, because friction does the most damage. Use a gentle spin and dry it flat or evenly draped over a rack. If it still twists regularly, the cause is often a knit with poor stability.
Yes, as long as the T-shirt is plain, fits well at the shoulders and has a well-made neckline. With tailored trousers a tucked-in T-shirt usually works better, because it tidies the waistline. Finish the look with a leather belt and shoes in a calm, classic style.
A polo works when you want to look a little more formal but still value the comfort of a knit. The collar frames the upper body and still looks good when you take your blazer off during the day. It suits offices without a strict dress code and meetings where a shirt would feel too formal.
